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Post by Marathonman on Jun 2, 2020 19:57:19 GMT -6
I do not know what happen to you Creasysee as i thought you were doing so well. other than to many winds on G, things were good proving my point and stand that inductance can and will control current flow. removing winding's to get around 400 mh and adjusting the primary winding's to reflect the current usage is all that needed to be done. it is to bad you quit while you were so close. Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Oct 3, 2020 14:11:36 GMT -6
I have been on Creasysee's web site and he has not posted their either. i am starting to think something bad has happened to him. if any person has any word of him please let us know.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Jan 25, 2021 19:59:09 GMT -6
Since it has been many, many, many months since we heard from our friend, i will now open this thread up for others to post on with their electronic switching scenario's. tomorrow i will change the thread name.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Mar 6, 2021 20:16:42 GMT -6
I am very busy but i am moving my electronic build to this thread in the next week. from now on i will have my electronic switching posted here.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on May 9, 2021 8:06:59 GMT -6
Here are the brains of the electronic switching, the timing breakout board and the Teensy 4.1. i have started to solder parts on the board but some are missing because of Arrow and there BS. the board and Teensy in the picture are exactly like the video i posted on youtube with 64 bit shift registers except of course have much, much shorter traces. i will continue to post updates as i move along. Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on May 12, 2021 18:48:46 GMT -6
Working on electronic switching tonight after the ranch work. i have literally tested every connection and solder as i go many times over and everything seems good. as you can see from the pics i have some extra goodies in the mix. i have a Ethernet/USB board coming from OSH that will be connected to the Teensy plus extra memory already soldered. since the board will be above the transistor boards i soldered the 125 mm connectors on the bottom and also so i can have right angle headers on the remaining Teensy pins i can use for other things like current, voltage, temperature sensors ect. all in all i am very happy with the turnout except for one thing. 125 mm or even TSSOP is the absolute far reach test of my abilities and am struggling at that. seems one or two micron over on solder and the pins are all soldered together. definitely trying to say the least. it is hard to believe that the first circuit on youtube is now this little gem of a board that will control three transistor boards. Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Jun 6, 2021 7:08:21 GMT -6
Breakout shift register boards are a complete success. with the program i posted it shifts two bits at a time for make before break scenario and the ends have three channels tied to them for a longer on time. so what is all this for ? to mimic the brush rotation exactly or at least as close as i possible can. when observing the the active inductor controller i had noticed that the ends were on for many times longer then that of the inner contacts. after some study i realized that with this incorporated into the design it would cause an inductive roll off at the peak of the sine wave output which would give it a nice rounded secondary sine wave shape. this is the reason i am trying to mimic the brush rotation as much as possible. the funny part of the whole thing was i did not realize that the third lower right LED break out was not plugged in all the way so i did not realize until after i posted the video. in the second part i had fixed apparently.
boards are perfect in every way and i am completely satisfied with my design efforts. below is a youtube video of my efforts.
EDIT; Can you imagine only 34 actual lines of code can do this in a Make-Before-Break scenario below. It will be perfect for electronic tap switching of part G active inductor controller.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Nov 28, 2021 12:52:42 GMT -6
Something i just realized that when looking at the LED board design there is a sine wave pattern on them. maybe it is a good sign of things to come. the whole reason for this type of switching and hardware is to mimic the brush rotation of the original mechanical version exactly as possible. this also includes the longer period of on time the brush is making contact with the last contacts on either end which is considerably longer then the ones in the middle. I think i am successful in this goal with this design thus will be concentrating on the high side driver circuit for my active inductor controller tap switching.
having problems with the one i purchased off of ebay, seems there is some grounding somewhere. looks like i will acquire a new one for testing.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Jan 15, 2022 0:46:24 GMT -6
Here is my new test circuit demo board i just finished. it will get sent off to the manufacture sometime this week end. the three circuits are for three different transistors to test. they are SQP10250E, SUP10250E Mosfets and the NGTB40N65IHRTG IGBT i already have. the top of the board has three signal connections and the signal ground. the left side of the board has two LDO's, one 5 volt for powering the logic side of the high side driver. one 15 volt for powering the transistor side of the high side driver. the supply supplying both of them is 18 volts. at the bottom there are connections for three loads with two connections each with power positive on the right and negative on the left for the high voltage supply. this will really help out in my decision to move forward on the transistor board finalization then get it made. i can then concentrate on part G taps on the toroid core. click pic for larger view. Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Jan 21, 2022 13:54:27 GMT -6
Just a quick update;
I ran my card down to far on a few purchases and have to wait until the first before i can have the boards made. my bank is an hour plus drive away and i do not feel like driving to make a cash deposit. rechecking board to make sure no mistakes which i found none.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Apr 22, 2022 8:50:18 GMT -6
High side Test board is being sent in Monday. spending this weekend going over all board I have designed making sure no mistakes. parts are being ordered from Mouser and will move forward on my testing of the electronic switching of the Figuera device. After testing I will finalize the 16 channel transistor board then test the device as a whole. I am so excited.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Nov 15, 2022 17:14:39 GMT -6
Core came in today so I stripped it getting ready for attaching the taps. The reason I chose an AC variac is the tightness of the winds in the core and the fact that the windings are already ground down which is perfect to attach wires plus I also like the base having rubber feet. Three channel test board is on it's way. Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Nov 20, 2022 19:01:29 GMT -6
Three channel high side test boards are in the US but somehow had the wrong zip code and will call tomorrow to change. I am ready to test my ass off lol!
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Nov 23, 2022 9:00:04 GMT -6
Not feeling well today but well enough to start making my keys for my core. I have 60 channels on my electronic switching so I will be making 60 keys then soldering them on the core three windings apart for a total 180 windings. The keys are similar to creasysee's keys he used for his active inductor. I will be sanding the bottoms of the keys to they have a good flat surface to solder to the AC variac flat surface windings. The only difference is I will have 16 channel high side boards attached to the keys instead of direct soldering.
I will post some pics when I have made some progress. Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Nov 23, 2022 15:09:28 GMT -6
Just ordered UV solder mask off ebay to aide in my soldering of the electronic core wire taps. By the time I finish cutting, bending and sanding all my keys it should be in. Regards, Marathonman
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