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Post by Marathonman on Sept 1, 2020 21:41:39 GMT -6
Very good work Skyrob very impressive. most of us dream of such precise tools to use in our arsenal. i have to wonder though your interpretation of the patent leaves little to be desired.. you are dreaming big on such a short understanding of a drawing that is just for understanding only.
good luck.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Deleted on Sept 1, 2020 22:38:49 GMT -6
Thank you for kind words
I have tried two triplets so far and I have experience reduction of load from supply It was only 5 % but in presence of each time secondary output was connected to positive brush via bridge rectifier
I feel that diodes for now are not doing justice to this circuit and that is why I’m making new commutator with ability to convert output AC to DC
Will share pictures soon
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Post by Marathonman on Sept 2, 2020 12:51:11 GMT -6
In the original device patent in 1902 and 1908 diodes were not invented so were not used or mentioned in either so go figure. it is nasty today so i decided to work on core and brushes. also fan assembly came in along with another power supply. other 12 volt supply is now being use for ambient lighting on the four columns in the front of the ranch house. hole slots in ears of brush sleeves are not the greatest but i have precision cut ears for the next ones made. the active inductor controller below has two ends that are connected to each set of electromagnets set N and set S with the rotating positive brush. the current flowing in from the two feeds to the brush will cause opposing magnetic fields at the brush that split one large inductor in two halves giving it the ability to control both feeds 180 out, one increasing, one decreasing, yet in complete unison. sorry all you resistor fans that believe "R" actually exist, it does not exist and is just a representation of some resistance but in the case of Figuera's device is an active inductor controller. it uses the reactance of the coil "only" to control current flow with near zero resistance of the wire it self. the pic below is only 1/2 of the C core. the other half will be used to close the core to preserve the magnetic flux. screws will have washers on them when attached to brush rotor so no worries there.i know lousy slots but it will still work. Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Deleted on Sept 2, 2020 14:56:44 GMT -6
I know how Much time it takes to create and assemble Keep on it it will be interesting to compare results
It is very good idea to have adjustable inductor like this
I have made 5 different inductors on closed cores and will compare them
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Post by Deleted on Sept 2, 2020 15:10:04 GMT -6
Some of my inductors I had to make connections same on all inductors to be able to swap them for testing purposes commutator has the same connection to much inductors this is for future help with sizing primaries bobbins are in works and new primaries winding will start soon
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Post by Marathonman on Sept 2, 2020 16:52:41 GMT -6
To all,
Inductors that have wire closer together will work the best like that of a variac. the reason is when the switching occur and other winding's are added to that side they will magnetically link better to that circuit the closer they are. if they are farther apart they will not have as good as a magnetic link as the closer one did thus the field of that circuit will be a weaker one.
so the point of this is, when winding your part G inductor controller do not have large gaps between the wires as they will have a much weaker magnetic linking then if they were wired close to each other. this is the reason why variac's work so well.
EDIT; I am actually really unhappy in the way part G turned out when compressing wire and epoxy. i had to much movement on the left side of core. after i finish video and revile part G i will take a dremmel tool and fix, reepoxy before i test with primaries. Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Sept 20, 2020 15:11:33 GMT -6
Been having some troubles lately but i think things are ok now. i had to many troubles with the resin bobbins softening when i ran power through the transformer so i quickly ordered a 120 to 100 volt Japanese transformer and have it hooked up in the power supply. some weird things are happening that i just can not understand how it can happen until i figured out i had a DUH moment. i have 92.4 volts coming from the Variac to the power supply with 12.45 volts DC on the 12 volt line. the totally weird thing is i have 121 volts DC coming out the power supply that i could not explain. some days you just have to laugh at yourself as it finally dawned on me that the voltage in DC will be 1.4 times the AC coming in which will actually be 129 volts minus the voltage drop of two diode in the bridge. so i basically have 6 volts in limbo somewhere with an output of 121 volts DC. variac will be adjusted to 72 volts to attain 100 volts DC. Power supply is working wonderfully and working well with my Variac exactly as it is suppose to be. the 300 watt power resistor with the push/pull fans will only allow 300 watts through the system so there will never be a shut down as the system can only draw 3 amps max. that reads 12.45 volts, sorry so dark. see the re-settable breaker to the left on the 100 volt line. Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Sept 26, 2020 12:46:39 GMT -6
Nice workmanship, can you explain things a little along with vids like motor used, brushes timing used ext... remember there are a lot of people watching and i am sure they would like to know along with members.
Thanks, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Sept 29, 2020 14:38:41 GMT -6
Since you removed your video embedding on this site to promote your channel i will remove your posts. if you continue to promote your channel here and not embed i will have no choice but to remove you permanently.
Good day, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Sept 30, 2020 19:23:07 GMT -6
This forum is a platform for Figuera followers and builders that share and post information. the fact that you are trying to get followers of Figuera on my website to promote your channel on youtube and think you are to advertise on my website is purely disgusting and delusional. it is "how dare you" not how dare I.
good luck in the future on your project but you will not be advertising on my website based off of MY HARD WORK.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Oct 1, 2020 16:50:42 GMT -6
I have been working on part G's rotor and have busted so many brushes that i had to order 4 more. they are so cheaply made i can not believe it. retested power supply with a 95 volt DC tread mill motor and it passed with flying colors. power resistor got a little warm but that is it as the push pull fans kept it in check. unfortunately the volt amp meter is a piece of china crap with the amp meter wigging out, voltage is just fine though.
I have the light test bench ready to test part G with two 100 watt Incandescent bulbs acting as set N and set S to verify the inductive reactance ie, the sweeping action. i am just waiting for the brushes as i replaced the larger one's on the adjustment ring as they had a to large of a span as in three segments and i need only two wide. Taps finally made it in so i can finish the rotor brush attachments. i will be weighing them as balance is critical for a rotating body at 3600 rpm.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Oct 2, 2020 19:52:21 GMT -6
Update; Am completely fed up with China electronics to i yanked the DC motor and lousy controller off my part G and will be replacing with a small AC motor i found on Surplus Sales of Nebraska. i will be installing a variable control which will allow me to attach the secondary output to run it when finished testing. Motor is 1-7/8"D x 3-1/8"L .2 amp @ 7200 RPM. good news is shaft is only .35 mm larger so no sweat there drilling rotor shaft. motor is pre circa 1959 back when things were made good unlike today's CRAP from China!
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Oct 6, 2020 19:55:57 GMT -6
Update; New brushes came in today as well as the AC motor due in Friday. also electronic B.O. boards are almost finished. busted another tap today so again here i go again with the cheap China crap. will come up with plan B to get brushes mounted to rotor.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Oct 9, 2020 13:07:04 GMT -6
I received my AC motor to replace my China crap motor today. i am thoroughly impressed at the quality of this motor and the packaging was top notch. the copper lined bag allowed the motor to stay pristine and even smelled brand new. will be attaching it to an AC dimmer controller for speed control and at .2 amp pretty much anything can handle that. i am so stoked at the quality of this little gem being from 1959 back when things were made to last unlike today's standard garbage. if anyone is interested i bought it from Surplus & Sales of Nebraska. time to get to work to get this beautiful creature in it's rightful place. the good news is it will stay onto the finished build as it is AC.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Nov 1, 2020 22:57:04 GMT -6
I have not forgotten anyone, i am just so damn busy with the ranch right now with winter approaching. having a bit of trouble getting a metal hole saw located and other things so i worked on the electronic version to clear my head. seems i will have to order a scale so i can weigh brushes and screws to get a proper balance of the rotor. right now to much vibration for my liking.
seems all our builders went M.I.A..... so bad!
Regards, Marathonman
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