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Post by Marathonman on Nov 8, 2020 15:29:54 GMT -6
New AC motor is not powerful enough to turn rotor and multiple brushes at the same time. i am extremely frustrated to no end to say the least. to much money spent on such a simple thing as turning an F-in rotor. i will be purchasing a massive motor if i have to to get this thing rotating at it's proper RPM. inductor brushes glide very, very smooth but it the combination of four brushes that is to much for small motors. I will post when i have found a REAL MOTOR.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Nov 19, 2020 17:43:32 GMT -6
Found good motor at Ampflow and am discussing mater with engineer. through his best guess or estimation of the drag from the brushes i will be ok on the motor. i am waiting on replay 11/20 /20 or monday 11/22/20. every thing is ready for the final test of part G and vid of part G inductive controller switching light in unison 180 out. Been very, very busy at the ranch between maintenance and 1000 feet x 8 feet high garden fence by hand. i am wore out from the power auger slamming me. as soo as a real motor comes in i will post like no tomorrow.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Nov 21, 2020 11:08:44 GMT -6
I have the new motor coming and will be here the first week in December. all i have to do is attach it to the rotor and i am off and running. until then i am working very hard on the ranch and also the electronic version of switching as i have posted on that thread. i will keep informed of changes and updates. Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Dec 6, 2020 16:36:52 GMT -6
UPDATE; Good news is i have had success in putting the system together and everything seems to run just great. power supply bridge rectifiers are staying cool with the repurposed intel proc cooler as is the 300 watt power resistor with push pull fans. i set up an incandescent lights in place of the electromagnets (N@S) for a good visualization of the sweep. the brushes rotate very nice and smooth with no lifting except at very high velocities so some slight balancing is at hand. possible tighter brush springs wouldn't hurt either. i presently have NO sparking at 100 volts but did notice slight brush sticking at 3000 to 3600 RPM. the new BLDC motor controller is a complete champ rotating the motor with not a sweat bead in sight. i monitored the heat coming of the heat sinks and motor housing and i have to say i am totally impressed to say the least. the controller was my problem from the start and i just did not know it until i found this controller. two thumbs up to the seller on ebay as after 10 to 15 minutes of high speed rotation i felt no heat what so ever off of either. now the bad news, the amount of inductance i have is slightly inadequate and i only get slight flickering of the bulbs. while this is not complete success, it is not complete failure either. what this means is i have to strip part G down and rewind with a smaller wire because that is far cheaper then a new rotor @ 400 bucks. i can have more winding's with smaller wire and still keep my resistance down low. i hate to do this as resistance is very much a concern in this device but i do not have the large 7 inch C core my ex roommates threw in the trash @ 400 plus bucks plus $3,000 worth of supplies. assholes ! the original replicator has thick 3 mm x 5 mm rectangle wire that was set on end so a larger amount of winding was accomplished. i might consider this as the final outcome will be worth it i think it is funny because Creasysee had way to much inductance and i have slightly to little. so what i will do is order slightly smaller wire and rewind part G to reflect higher inductances that is all. the rest of the system is just great. this is all a part of research and trotting in unknow territory. below is the test bed for which i used for testing out part G, power supply ect.... output was tested with meter as permanent one is not in just yet. i am also considering cutting a slant in the power supply box so that the face of the side will be angled downward facing me that way both 12 volt and 100 volt meters are facing outward to read that way i do not overvolt my fans again. PS; my power supply barks like a really big dog and smooth as butter. by the way, this was my first power supply with complete success @ any voltage i need and 3 amp's. PS.PS. i love that ability to watermark my pics with Marathonman at the bottom. Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Dec 11, 2020 20:12:54 GMT -6
I am going to try something different then what i did last time on G. this time i am using wire guides to hold the wire in place and then rotating half of part G on it's axis to make it better or easier to wind. i am using epoxy to mount wire guides on part G's core so that i do not have the spread out like last time. this will be much, much cleaner install of wire then before. the wire guides will be pullies in place so as wire is coming off of spool it is guided much cleaner and smoother then before. i am planting garlic in the morning but i have the rest of the afternoon and Sunday to get "r" done, hopefully.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Dec 18, 2020 20:45:07 GMT -6
Update; working on greenhouse tomorrow as we finished the clear roof on the gun range conversion so we bought all the wood and windows to finish the walls. Sunday i will begin working on part G rewinding. sorry the ranch comes first as getting ready for total collapse is very important as is self sustainability. i like to eat so the garden and all supporting it is mandatory.
worked on wire guides this evening which will aide in the winding of part G.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Jan 3, 2021 19:41:06 GMT -6
All; Worked on part G today FINALLY. i still had some minor repairs to do on the core before i wind it. also worked on Part G controller RPM display and wire roller guides. even though they are plastic they still hold fast. since the wire is not bent it will flow through the rollers just fine. glued a metal guide on the core that i am going to wind against/on but i did not take a shot of that for some reason. also wired up new display on power supply and works just fine. can't seem to find reasonable metal rollers anywhere so i had to choose sucky plastic. Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Feb 26, 2021 20:58:31 GMT -6
well i tested the rollers above and they work and they don't. well a better description is they guide the wire but are not strong enough to straighten the wire out as well as i would of liked. if anyone knows where to get metal rollers that do not cost an arm and a leg please give me a shout out.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Mar 16, 2021 19:44:06 GMT -6
When i was working on my part G C core i glued a guide on the left side of the core to aide in winding but when i was tapping on it it busted off. on closer inspection i noticed to much of the surface was not making contact with the core. after some resanding i had much better contact so i reglued with JB weld for better holding power. now i have s good straight guide to wind against. i also had to grind off all the groves off of the pliers i was using for a flat surface because it was destroying the wire and the insulation causing a direct contact between the loops....not good. pliers are needed to keep the rectangle wire on edge so i can get 100 winds in the space of the C core.
it has been extremely slow process fore which i do apologize. everything is hinging on the core so i must get it right this time.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Mar 20, 2021 14:00:44 GMT -6
Finally after many weeks i had time to rewind part G. the winding turned out good except the start next to the guide but i can tighten that up very easily. i will epoxy as soon as i can and grind then buff the winding's to a mirror finish for a non sparking brush rotation. i am over provisioning the winding's just in case the per loop inductance calc tool is off. i do not think it is as my gut feeling tells me i am where i need to be. i can then quite easily remove unneeded winding's if i find i need to. all in all i am finally happy with part G thus as soon as i am finished i will move on the electronic control with a few minor changes then off to the PCB manufacture. once i epoxy the winding's then apply pressure it will dry totally flat then comes the grinding and buffing. Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Mar 21, 2021 9:41:06 GMT -6
Epoxy ordered as i ran out. i already have the PTFT sheets so it will not stick when i compress with clamps. i also am ordering another voltage meter for the 12 volt fan and meter supply so i do not over volt it again and burn out the repurposed intel fan.
will update when changes occur.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Mar 27, 2021 16:12:30 GMT -6
Epoxy received and core epoxied. core is clamped on six spots so i expect it to turn out fantastic. i super glued the winding,s on three spots both sides so no winding slippage. i have to let cure for 24 hrs so i will unrap Sunday and post pics. electronic high side test board will be in a few days, will post on electronic thread when received and testing.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Mar 28, 2021 16:06:25 GMT -6
Core is dried but i will let cure for another 24 hrs which then i will grind and buff mirror flat for no sparking brush travel. as you can see from below the winding turned out great. the trick was to spot glue the sides with supper glue so they can not move so when the rest was epoxied and clamped every winding fell into place. after i assemble i will upload a video to youtube showing the active inductor in all it's glory controlling current flow in the most efficient manor on this planet. Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Apr 2, 2021 16:29:52 GMT -6
Well i finished core and grinding/buffing but had issues with the epoxy letting the winding's go from the core and very little sparking so slightly on the right side. am working on the small issues and will test the primaries i have wound this weekend as i actually have a few days off. oh i am getting a rise and fall but since the epoxy let go from the core it is not what i expected and might again need to redo. if i do i will use JB Weld this time as it is heat tolerant. will post after tests this weekend.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Apr 4, 2021 8:04:47 GMT -6
Working on inductor core today and addressing issues. still have issues with epoxy not being heat tolerant during grinding phase so i clamped and let set for a day or two in sun. it helped but not 100% so i might have to rerewind. the reason for this is as the wire detatched from core the space between the wire and core decreased the inductance which reduces the control of current flow which is NOT good.
my advice to every researcher replicator is use a machinable heat tolerant epoxy. trust me the less aggravation and rework is worth the price of the epoxy.
Regards, Marathonman
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