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Post by Marathonman on Jun 20, 2020 17:42:41 GMT -6
If you remember a while back i attempted to mount the slip rings with horrible unbalanced results and had to cut it off the shaft. i will be trying a different approach using a 17.5 mm drill in the table top drill press for a nice even hole. this is part of the big order i have coming in Monday. the hole is slightly smaller then the shaft so i think this is the best approach compared to trying to sand it which was not good. i have no big machining tools so i have to use what is on hand.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Jun 22, 2020 20:59:30 GMT -6
Had a few parts come in today but with this plandemic in place i knew everything would not come in. had one order sit in Philly for 6 days on the dock before shipment. the sad thing is i ordered a small PCB board from China MFG and even shipped it sooner then the other fools. how pathetic.
on a much brighter note i received the 17.5 mm drill for the slip ring. i unfortunately had to sand a little to get on but no sloppyness while on the shaft thank god. the rest of my order is due in tomorrow so i have an early day in the garden so i can start building in the lab in the afternoon. PTFT non stick sheets are due in later this week so i can finish epoxying part G. new motor is part of my order due in tomorrow so part G will be absent of a bent shaft on the last motor.
i will post pics when i can as i finish build or assembly of part G. life is very good right now so i am very fortunate in finishing not only part G but the whole device.
Much regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Jun 23, 2020 7:59:41 GMT -6
This is part of the reason as to why i suggested multi parallel winding's on the primaries because of not only less resistance but more winding total. with one long winding the electromagnet reaction time will be so slow it will not be able to keep up with the current changes of part G thus loosing unison.
multi parallel winding's is the only option to get the proper winding's, low resistance and reaction speed. maybe the use of 16 to 18 awg wire will help in this scenario.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Jul 2, 2020 20:21:59 GMT -6
I am so sorry but farm work has me bogged down right now. i am taking this weekend off so i can build, well all i have to do is water the garden. i lost my 3D printer mini SD card and adapter or rather someone helped them selves to it so i am waiting for that to come in so i can print my Bearing holder. i can then assemble the controller and post video of direct brush contact active inductor controlling current flow like no tomorrow.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Jul 27, 2020 15:39:22 GMT -6
I at the moment am the only male on the farm for the last month and for two more so my time is extremely short. at the end of the week i will have time to work on my controller assembling it to get to the retesting phase. i do apologize for the lack of time and build.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Jul 28, 2020 12:27:13 GMT -6
One thing everyone needs to realize is the primaries are not on continuously. they are DC but are constantly fluctuating from high to low 120 times a second in the US and 100 times a second everywhere else. your wire will get hot when testing with constant DC but not while using the inductor controller.
7 amp is a lot of amperage to start with and you might need a few more winds. paralleling your winding's will get you the needed ampere turns while keeping the resistance and self inductances low.
this also applies to part G, thicker wire equates to the most efficient active inductor possible. part G uses inductive reactance which is the opposition to current flow so the less resistance the more efficient it will be.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Aug 1, 2020 18:03:27 GMT -6
I worked on the controller today installing the bearing holder and the bearing. would of liked the bottom of the bearing holder to be 2 millimeter but i am stuck with 3 mm. since the bearing can not ride on the bottom like it did, it was a pain to balance with little taps here and there but i got it. i will be installing the slip ring and commutator tomorrow and maybe brushes so i will post some pics of my progress.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Aug 3, 2020 20:38:16 GMT -6
Sorry for not posting my video and pics of part G but my phone had an accident as in i crushed the shit out of it with a huge rock many, many times. i can honestly tell you it will never bother me again. when i get a new phone i will rerecord video of part G with perfect balance after the commutator, brushes and slip ring installed. i am working on an adjustment ring that the commutator brushes are mounted to so i can have full adjustment of them. the slip ring brush is solid mount.
this is the general design of the adjustable commutator brush holder. the brushes are going to be hard mounted but the middle slots are going to have wing nuts for adjustment allowing the ring to rotate around the commutator. black rods are not going to be their as they are a mistake and will replace pic soon.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Admin on Aug 10, 2020 22:59:31 GMT -6
Skyrob please to not post in tech thread as that is my thread and only for me to post what i have learned. it states on the first page not for member posting. please follow the rules or further action will be taken.
Regards, ADMIN
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Post by Marathonman on Aug 12, 2020 19:38:50 GMT -6
Been vary busy on farm as i am now by myself until end of September...ARG! so that means if it grows or needs built i have to water it or build it.
printed out the last couple of days 3x3 page posters for my up n coming video's i will be making. i will be starting from the 1908 patent, it's massive drawing confusions and then follow up with the real stuff reality is made of. i have very big posters and will be explaining most every detail i can think of and many you can not think of.
the part i designed in emachineshop for my adjustable commutator brush holder is finished but the file export feature in STl is a complete joke in the new version and i can not get it to work. the normal file size is four kilobyte but the new file is 245 kilobyte and is completely unreadable in Cura. Cura thinks the file is 5x5 x .1 mm when the part is 5 inches wide ring with slots in it for adjustment. awaiting feed back from someone that can explain their broke program. other file exports are paid export but why pay for something that is broke to start with.
i should have youtube vids up and running this weekend and i will post the links here in general discussion and yes i am expecting feed back from everyone.
Regards, Marathonman
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Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Aug 14, 2020 18:19:15 GMT -6
Skyrob please to not post in tech thread as that is my thread and only for me to post what i have learned. it states on the first page not for member posting. please follow the rules or further action will be taken. Regards, ADMIN No Problem MM : I have deleted All my posts in this tread , I hope that will make you very Happy Skyrob
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Post by Admin on Aug 17, 2020 11:07:31 GMT -6
I would like to welcome our newest members snorowski who has decided to join in on the FIguera Quest. there is a lot of information here, more so then any other site on the net. please enjoy the info i have provided and if you have any questions please feel free to ask after reviewing the info. you can pm if you care to go that rout but i do prefer you ask in public as it is possible that someone else has the same questions just not asked yet.
again WELCOME ABOARD. Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Aug 17, 2020 20:29:57 GMT -6
Man i tell you what, Emachineshop turned out to be a really sorry company. their STL export feature worked fine in 2018 but now it is a joke. they now call it a beta feature when two years ago it worked just fine. i can import file into Cura from two years ago but not the newest release. a 5 inch ring is reported as 5 milimeter yet they say there is no problem. WOW ! not only that they charge a 70 dollar set up fee for two small parts taking the total for two small parts at 100 bucks. do yourself a favor and stay away from emachineshop as they are F-in total Corporate crooks ! the part i am having made that is ripping my wallet from my hands is below. the real sad part is i have to have these parts to adjust the brushes to the commutator that is the secondary feed back into part G. PS. i have been feeling bad for a weeks from bad water and food at a fellow farmers house. i finally feel good and have my strength back thanks to eating from my garden. Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Aug 18, 2020 12:34:06 GMT -6
You will not believe what just happened. i decided to try one more time to get Emachineshop to work. i downloaded from website, installed then designed the adjustable commutator brush holder exporting to Cura. out of the blue it started working and Voila' it just worked. i have been trying to get it to work for a month now to no avail. maybe it was because i was holding my lip wrong or emachine finally fixed it who knows. one weird thing though is now my 3D printer wants to print off the build plate. i had to pull it over manually to stop it from clattering from the end stop. anyone have a clue as to why now it decides to go bonkers on me?
i am printing the plate out now as we speak and this is after some tweaks to the ring adjuster. this allows me to do a mock up to fit the parts then when the real plate comes in i can assemble quickly.
Regards, Marathonman
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Post by Marathonman on Aug 19, 2020 17:34:50 GMT -6
Remember what Clemente Figuera said in his patent when referring to "a switch to make it continuous if wanted to". what he was referring to of that time frame of 1908 is a "COMMUTATOR" because diodes or bridge rectifiers where NOT invented yet. while he did not disclose the charge separation in his patent, Buforn in his haste to repatent under his name did disclose the commutator in the pic below. Regards, Marathonman
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